March 17 is a great day for the Irish and for the fisherman. The arrival of
St.Patrick’s Day marks the official start of the fishing season in New York waters
with the awakening of the flounders from their winter’s sleep.
At this time in mid-March, the waters have usually warmed just enough to get the
flounders moving in the deep muddy holes in which they have spent the winter months.
To catch flounder at this early time in the season requires some knowledge of the bay
bottom and the cooperation of mother nature. It is a necessity to be fishing in one of the
deep over-wintering areas as the flounder will not move out into the shallows until the
water has warmed significantly. This will usually not occur until about mid April. The
last two weeks in March can be very windy and cold. If a two or three day blast of frigid
air hits, it usually will send the flounder back to bed. In this case it is best to wait
for better conditions to plan your trip. However, a day or two of mild weather will
probably return them to their feeding activities. Because they tend to concentrate in
these deep and confined areas, the fishing can be quite good under these conditions.
I have experienced the most success at this time of the year working the deep holes
along the State Boat Channel. The thirty foot hole just east of Gilgo has always produced
well as does the channel around Black Bank and Squaw Island. Occasionally the Sore Thumb
pocket near Fire Island Inlet and the deep ferry boat channels off Heckscher State Park
can also be productive.
Because the water is cold, the fish are slow to move. They must be enticed to begin to
feed and therefore chumming and/or stirring the bottom is absolutely a must. I use a
combination of ground clam chum in a weighted chum pot with a few fresh mussels cracked
and spread around the area under the boat. I also employ a "flounder- pounder"
or weighted device to churn up the bottom and free tiny morsels from the sediment.
For hook bait I like to have both clam and worms available. I begin with some of both
on my two hook rig and then switch to all of the type that receives the most attention of
the flounder. It seems that from one day to the next, or in a different area, only one of
these baits will be the preferred food for Mr. Flounder.
Presentation of the bait is all-important. A bait that is constantly moving due to a
shifting boat will not catch fish. Many March days are breezy. One should be prepared to
use a two anchor system. This will reduce the wind shear and lessen the shifting of the
boat.
Color seems to attract flounder and I prefer yellow. I use a tandem-tied two hook rig
with yellow plastic beads. A variety of these rigs can be purchased in any tackle shop.
To keep it a sporting affair and enjoy the scrappy fight a flounder can give, I suggest
the use of very light tackle. I have recently come to enjoy ultra light spinning gear. It
is a real thrill to catch even a one pound flounder using 4 lb. test line and ½ oz. of
lead weight. With only a small amount of water resistance, the flounder can swim laterally
and really put up quite a battle. Keeping it a sport is really what it is all about!
I know flounders aren’t really Irish but St. Patrick’s Day has passed and the
flounder season is off to a good start. Grab a rod and some bait and get out there and
have some fun!
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
Live bait fishing for stripers is a very exciting and often rewarding technique. In
most cases, a large live bait will produce trophy size specimens. Due to this well-known
fact, live bait fishing has become very popular with the resurgence of the striped bass
population.
The two most widely used live baits are eels and bunker although many other types of
live baits are used. It is this fact that brings me to an important point for
consideration.
When using eels as the bait, it is customary to use a single hook. An eel is an easily
swallowed soft bodied bait with little bulk to interfere with hook setting and therefore a
single hook is sufficient. Bunker on the other hand are quite different. Because it is a
large and a tough skinned bait, it interferes with hook setting, resulting in many missed
fish. This fact was discovered many years ago. At some point in time, a creative angler
discovered that a treble hook with one tine through the lower jaw, and one through the
nostril of the bunker, would get a hook-up almost every time. As a result, the use of
treble hooks for "bunker dunking" is still a very common method used today.
So, what is the point? Any bass that manages to swallow the entire bunker with treble
hook and become gut hooked is most likely going to die! What is also a fact is that fish
under the legal size limit must be returned to the water dead or alive. Using a treble
hook is therefore not in the best interest of striped bass conservation.
The conservation of the recently revived striped bass population is now a major
responsibility of the rod and reel sportfisherman. Considering this fact, I tried some
experiments using single hook arrangements.
I discovered that a bait hooked in any body part other than the head did not swim
correctly in a hard running tide. I was not getting many pickups using this method. I then
tried hooking the bait in a non-vital part of the head. The presentation of the bait
improved and I got more pickups. However, due to the amount of tough tissue in the head of
a bunker, the hook would not pull freely from the bait and would not set cleanly in the
fish. Most pickups were not hooked securely.
I like to catch fish and to release them in good condition. This variation of terminal
tackle provides for both of these needs. I recommend that all you "bunker
dunkers" give it a try. I think you will be satisfied with the results and avoid
having to experience those awful feelings of guilt and waste when cutting loose a
beautiful striper that is gut hooked and doomed by a treble hook.
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
Taken out of context, this title may seem redundant. To a fisherman however, it has a
special meaning. There are really two ends to a fishing line. One end is fixed to the
reel, rod, and the anxious fisherman. The other end, the terminal end, is the one that is
supposed to catch the fish. The terminal end however, will not catch fish unless it has
some sort of hook, lure, bait, etc.. These additions are referred to as terminal tackle.
The "terminal end" is most important to the fisherman but is often
overlooked! Regardless of the investment in boats, rods, reels, time or effort, if
terminal tackle is not appropriate to the job at hand, then all of that investment is
wasted.
Live-bait fishing for trophy stripers is one of my favorite kinds of fishing. I have
specialized in this type of fishing for many years. I have had the opportunity to try all
types of tackle and terminal gear. In the course of this investigation I have had many
successes and failures, all of which have led me to the combination that works most
effectively. This is a natural process, and I am sure that I will continue to experiment
to try to improve or adapt to changes as they come.
When live-bait fishing, a well balanced, quality rod and reel is an important
consideration. I am using a Penn
Power Stick #PC3801, with a Penn
535 graphite reel, spooled with 25lb Ande line. This combination is light and sporting
and yet powerful enough for the biggest of bass.
One very important rule I believe in firmly is, "SIMPLE RIG-SHARP HOOK!".
What does this mean when it comes to live-bait fishing? It means that the bait itself
attracts the fish. Anything else that may distract the attention of the fish will reduce
the chance for a pick-up and a hook-up! Keep the rig as basic as possible and always check
and sharpen your hooks when necessary.
I do most of my live-bait fishing around the Fire Island Inlet on Long Island in New
York. I use a very simple but effective terminal rig. I clinch knot a 3oz. drail to my
25lb line. I tie a double surgeon’s loop at one end of a four foot leader of 50lb
mono and clip it to the snap swivel at the trailing end of the drail. I clinch knot the
leader to a 6/0 - 8/0 live bait style hook and the rig is complete. The loop at the drail
end of the leader allows for a quick replacement when necessary. The only variation to
this rig might be an increase or a decrease in drail weight to match the current
conditions and water depth.
The change that might be required in drail weight is a simple one to accomplish. Simply
go up or down by one ounce increments until just enough weight is present to maintain the
bait within a few feet of the bottom. If you can lift the rod tip then quickly drop it and
feel the drail touch bottom, the weight is sufficient.
The most common baits used in live-bait fishing for striped bass are bunker and eels.
When fishing eels I use only one type of hook in all situations, a short shank live bait
style hook in 6/0 or 7/0 size. These hooks are very strong and usually quite sharp right
out of the package. Don’t forget to check the point and put a file to it if it
isn’t needle sharp. To hook the eel, the hook is run into the mouth and out an eye
socket. This placement of the hook gives it a sure hold in tough tissue and also allows
the eel to continue to pass water through its mouth and stay healthy and lively.
Fishing live bunker or any other live, hard bodied baitfish, requires more
consideration. In the past, most anglers fished bunker using a 4/0 size treble hook. One
point was inserted through the lower jaw, a second point through one nostril and the third
remained unattached. This method is no longer acceptable as it results in many gut hooked
fish that will not survive when released. A treble hook is almost impossible to remove
cleanly once it has been swallowed beyond the narrow throat. In these memorable days of a
revived striped bass fishery with size and bag limits, many bass must be returned to the
water so that they may survive! The use of treble hooks is therefore not in the best
interest of the sport.
Considering an alternative to using treble hooks, I tried experimenting with single
hook arrangements. I found that when hooked in any body part other than the head, the bait
did not swim correctly in a hard running tide. I was not getting many pick-ups due to its
unnatural action. I then tried hooking the bait in a non-vital part of the head. The
action improved, and I was getting lots of pick-ups. However, due to the tough tissue in
the head region of most baitfish, the hook would not pull free from the bait. I was
getting pick-ups but pulling the hook on most fish.
Being determined I finally came up with a variation that has proven to work extremely
well. I use a large #56 Berkley double-lock snap. I attach the small side of the snap to
the eye of a single 7/0 or 8/0 live bait hook. This must be done in an orientation that
sets the open large side of the snap turning opposite to the bend in the hook. I then use
the hook or a needle to make a small hole in the tough head or nose tissue of the
baitfish. The point of the large side of the snap is then passed from the top of the head
or nose, through the hole, out the mouth and snapped closed. The hook remains free
swinging along the side of the head. Fish caught with this rig are almost always mouth
hooked meaning they may be released relatively unharmed.
One additional hook arrangement should also be a part of the live-bait fisherman’s
arsenal. Big bluefish have a nasty habit of attacking a bait from the tail and are
therefore rarely hooked. Even if they do manage to get hooked, they almost always chew
through the mono leader and are lost during the fight. For such situations I have devised
another little addition to my tackle box. I prepare tail hooks on a short piece of vinyl
coated braided or single strand wire. I make them about six inches long with a barrel
swivel at one end and a 7/0 hook at the other end. If the bluefish show up I can quickly
add the tail hook to my double-lock snap and use a rubber band to fasten the hook to the
tail of the bait. I can then have fun catching and beating the bluefish at their game.
One additional point to consider for the safe release of fish in the spirit of
conservation or when tagging, gaffing a fish that is going to be released is not
acceptable! Fish that are to be released should be carefully netted and handled gently
while onboard. Even netting is detrimental to the fish as it removes some of the natural
protective slime from the body. When it is possible I use a device called a
"BogaGrip" that locks onto the jaw of the fish. I simply lean over the side of
the boat while holding the leader and lock it on the lower jaw. I can then remove the hook
while the fish is still in the water or gently bring it aboard. It works quite well and it
also has a built-in accurate scale for weighing your trophy. If the fish is brought into
the boat, a wet towel placed over the head and eyes will keep it calm. Remember to return
the fish to the water as soon as possible and not to handle it by the gills. Placing your
hand in the gill slits can cause irreparable damage to the fish.
The "terminal end" is a critical part of fishing tackle. I have spent much
time developing and perfecting terminal rigs that are effective. I have found this both
challenging and rewarding. Experimenting and being innovative is part of what makes
fishing so much fun! I hope my suggestions will work well for you.
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
Fishermen are facing a big problem; the government will probably shut down the LORAN
system within the next few years. GPS or Global Positioning System will then be the only
navigation system in operation. Before that time, all LORAN fixes in TD’s (time
differences) must be converted to the GPS system which uses LAT/LON (latitude and
longitude). A number of difficulties exist in the conversion process.
Every fisherman has a collection of LORAN fixes for favorite fishing holes, wrecks
etc.. With LORAN, these spots could be relocated with an accuracy of about 30 ft. using
pre-established TD’s originally set on the same machine. When the LORAN system fixes
a position it does so in TD’s and converts these to LAT/LON mathematically. The
LAT/LON values calculated cannot be expected to be accurate to the degree required to find
a small wreck or fishing spot. The user therefore cannot simply transfer this information
to the GPS memory and expect it to be useful. It will get you to the general neighborhood
but be off by up to 100 meters. Not very good if you are looking for a small piece of
wreckage in a big body of water.
The other problem that exists is that the GPS signals are purposely degraded by the
military for national security with something called Selective Availability or SA. With
this system working, GPS fixes can be off up to 100 meters. They are usually much better
than this figure but 30 meters is about the best obtainable. This error may vary in any
direction at any given time and is obviously much too great for precise location. The
public and GPS manufacturers have been raising a stink and the government has said they
are considering removing the SA degradation. If they do, GPS without SA has a working
error with satellite fixes of up to 30 meters. This is still not as good as the loran
system could fix a position in TD’s. In addition, you can bet if there is any
military action, the SA feature would be turned back on. They couldn’t care less if
you could not find your favorite honey hole for a day of fishing.
The answer to this dilemma is DGPS or Differential Global Positioning System. This
system uses an additional set of broadcast stations that are land based. These stations
send out signals that continuously add corrections to the GPS fixes. It requires the use
of a small secondary receiver unit and antenna called a "Differential" or DGPS.
This unit attaches to an already existing GPS unit that has "Differential"
capability. Almost all GPS units include this feature. With a DGPS operating, fixes of
less than 10 meters are guaranteed and 5 meters are common with just average price range
units. This kind of accuracy is even better than loran. Some higher priced DGPS units can
guarantee fixes within only a few centimeters!
Getting back to the original problem of converting LORAN fixes to GPS, the only sure
method is to run both LORAN and GPS units side by side. Relocate your old favorite fishing
spot using your loran and then store that position in your GPS unit while using the DGPS.
Once saved in this way, the fixes will be absolutely accurate and repeatable and even more
precise than your old LORAN numbers. In addition, these new DGPS numbers will be just as
accurate if used by another person using DGPS. In other words, you can share your spots
with others or may get new fixes from friends but only if they were originally determined
using DGPS.
Table of Contents
CABIN FEVER ALERT!
The onset of winter is near! What am I going to do to keep myself occupied until
spring? The boat is out of the water and all winterized, covered like a little baby, just
awaiting the first spring thaw. Everything that needed attention and preparation for the
cold season has been taken care of or has it? Probably the most important consideration of
all has been overlooked, a plan of action to prevent the onset of a sportsperson's worst
winter enemy, "cabin fever".
This condition is due to an excessive amount of time spent indoors with nothing much to
do or even worse, things to do that you hate doing. If you are like me or at least like I
used to be, the lack of a plan is what lets the disease catch up to you. It is no
different than normal disease prevention, steps must be taken to prevent catching it.
I used to get caught by getting distracted with the holiday season. When the fishing
season ended, preparation for the winter holidays kept me busy and jolly..."Ho, Ho,
Ho". Soon after however, I found myself increasingly irritable, and before I knew it
I was totally bummed out, hating the thought of more than two months of waiting for the
next fishing season, cabin fever struck!
I finally realized that I could not take another winter of the same mental anguish. It
seemed to me that I must develop a plan of action and I did. I set very specific goals,
listed them in order of personal interest and importance, and even set up a calendar
planner for activities. Once I had set these goals and made plans, I then had things to
look forward to. This process, at least in my case, has proven to be the best preventive
action that can be taken. Hopefully it would also work for you if you experience similar
anxieties.
A number of the things that I have included in my disease prevention program should be
of universal interest and importance to the sportfishing population. Perhaps if I mention
a few, it may help you to develop a plan of your own.
Loving to fish as I do, my first consideration is to plan fishing trips. I try to go on
a cod trip on one of the open boats out of Captree at least once a month, weather
permitting. I set up a special duffel bag with all the fishing equipment and clothing I
might need for such a trip and have it all ready to go. Of course I made up a special 8ft.
cod rod that I wrapped myself. Nothing fancy but it gets the job done. Something you might
consider is building a bunkerspoon trolling rod. These rods cannot be purchased from
commercial rod manufacturers but are specialty rods that must be custom crafted. They are
very expensive and cost somewhere between $250 to $400 apiece. Why not build one or two
yourself and save at least $100 per rod? They really make the spoon more effective and the
bass are certainly there to catch. You might consider making a few rods; it can be a lot
of fun, a great winter project.
I also made a point of trying my hand at white perch fishing in the tidal streams and
canals in my area. I had heard a lot about this fishing but never set my mind to trying
it. I finally did and found it very rewarding and easy to do. I purchased a fairly
inexpensive ultralight Penn spinning outfit and basic terminal gear at the local tackle
store. With a little advice from some friends and fishing articles I had read I set out to
give it a try and did quite well. As long as the ice is not excessive, it is a perfect
time filler for a couple of hours. Just jump in the car, head for the local creeks and
make a few casts. It gets you out of the house, into the fresh air and sometimes may even
provide a meal of fresh and very tasty fish.
If my budget permits, I plan a fishing excursion for a few days in Florida or some
other warm and inviting southern oasis. My budget rarely allows for such a trip, but when
I must travel south during the winter to visit relatives, I at least set up a one day
fishing outing with one of the local guides in the area I am visiting.
I have also found that the winter provides the time for me to sit down and do some
writing. I try to set aside a specific day and time each week just for writing. Not that
everyone might enjoy writing, but as sportfishing enthusiasts we have a responsibility to
let ourselves be heard by the people that govern and influence our sport and our lives.
Writing to local, state and federal representatives of government, and organizations that
deal with the environment and fishing regulation is a most important activity.
In addition to the things that I have already mentioned, I have also become involved in
a number of other activities that keep me active during "cabin fever season". In
recent years I have become more active in hunting. Waterfowling, bow and pistol hunting
for whitetails, and target shooting keep me busy all fall, winter and spring. These
activities may not be for you but I have found them very rewarding. If your therapy
requires some additional activity give hunting a try, you might like it.
I also plan my calendar so that I can attend as many of the fishing related shows,
exhibits and seminars. The New York National Boat Show, the Long Island Boat Show, the New
York Sportfishing Federation Forum are just a few of the events on tap for this year. I
will be at most of the shows. Looking forward to seeing you at these events and hope you
are feeling "healthy".
Good Fishing,
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1994
Table of Contents
SPRING
STRIPER FISHING
It's no big secret that there is usually an excellent run of big bass in the spring but
oddly enough many fishermen do not focus their attention on this exciting fishery. The
fall run is usually the one that gets most of the attention. As a result, many anglers are
missing an excellent opportunity for catching a trophy striped bass, especially if they
are using live bait.
In thinking about this situation I have come to the conclusion that a significant
number of fishermen probably avoid fishing for striped bass in the spring because they
have tried previously but have not been successful. The disappointment and frustration of
fishless trips can sour an attitude quickly. I experienced the same disheartening feelings
when I started to fish for bass many years ago and had little to show for my efforts. This
being the case, I can understand why this situation exists. What I have come to find out,
however, is that spring fishing can be just as good as fall fishing if not better.
Through the expense of a great amount of time and effort, I learned that there are
plenty of fish for the catching during this time of year. More importantly, I also learned
that to be successful in the spring requires a different set of strategies and techniques.
Getting rid of the notion that spring and fall fishing are exactly alike is the first step
to catching more fish.
Spring fishing is different because bass behavior is different. I am not implying that
spring and fall bass are totally different animals but subtle differences in their
behavior and the conditions of their environment at these different times must be
understood in order to achieve fishing success.
It has always been my opinion that live baits catch the biggest fish and many bass
fishermen are aware of this fact. The problem is that a good number of anglers are
unimaginative and a little lazy and fall into a fishing rut. The biggest rut is failing to
be creative and not trying to outsmart the elusive striped bass. A good example of this
attitude is thinking that an eel is the best and only live bait to use and continuing to
make repeated fishless trips drifting eels and blaming it on a lack of fish. The simple
reason for this situation is that fishing eels is very convenient. They can be bought at
any tackle shop are easy to keep and, yes, they are often an excellent bait but generally
not in the spring.
Break those old habits and try something new. In the spring, stripers are migrating
rapidly along the coast heading north. They feed along the way but in my experience I have
not found them to be as aggressive feeders as they are in the fall. Perhaps the drive to
get to their preferred warm weather feeding grounds makes them picky when it comes to food
found along the way as opposed to their massive feeding binge in the fall prior to a lean
winter and spawning in the rivers. As a result, I have been most successful with very
lively highly visible bait. In my opinion, the bunker is second to none for spring
fishing. I have also had excellent results with flounder, blackfish, seabass and bergalls
(remember that baits must be legal keeper size) but have definitely caught most fish on
bunker. To the fisherman in that rut I described, this presents a problem. Fishing bunker
gets involved. Snagging, cast netting, and setting up a livewell requires a lot of work,
but then who ever said that bass fishing was easy? If you want to be successful in the
spring, the extra effort and experimentation with baits is an absolute must.
The other major factor to consider is the rapidly warming water and its effect upon
tidal feeding activity and location. Toward the end of June, the shallow bays will be
heated to a point where the ebbing tide, normally the most productive tide, will be
carrying water above optimum conditions for bass toward the inlets. This wall of hot water
will push the bass back towards the inlet area. As a result, the back bay areas will
become less productive for fishing but the action at the inlets will usually remain good
for a couple of hours at least until the warmer water reaches that area. I therefore
concentrate my efforts closer to the inlet areas during this time.
Conversely this also means that the flooding tide returns the still cool ocean waters
into the bays so incoming tide starts to provide more consistent action as it works its
way toward the back bay areas. Following this rush of cool water will usually provide good
action.
During this time of year I monitor my temperature gauge closely. I try to fish the most
productive bottom structure that I can find that lies in water of optimum temperature
conditions which is usually between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
In summing up the situation, a combination of paying close attention to types of bait
used and water temperatures of the particular area being fished is crucial to spring bass
fishing. There are many other basic bass fishing strategies and techniques that must be
mastered in order to experience any measurable success with striped bass during any
season. These additional considerations I have mentioned hopefully might prove to be
useful and convince some of you to make a more concerted effort at catching a trophy fish
this spring.
I am looking forward to the new season. I will be running a new 3.0 Liter Mercury
engine on my boat "Skimmer" this year as part of the Mercury Marine "Pro
Team". After running Mercury engines for 25 years and knowing how they have always
performed and hearing all the positive reports about this new power plant, I am sure it
will be an awesome experience. I'll also be experimenting with some new Penn rods and
reels including their new line of flyreels. Tim Smith and I have plans to produce at least
two more videos during this season. My previous efforts, "Fishing For Striped Bass
Volume #1 Live Bait" and "Cast Netting For Live Bait" have been very
successful and I plan to continue making videos that are entertaining and informative and
that portray fishing as it really is, an exciting, challenging and wholesome sport. The
continued support and quality products of companies like Mercury Marine and Penn Fishing
Tackle really goes a long way in making it all possible.
I enjoyed seeing and speaking to many of you at the NYSFF Forum this past February. It
was a great show and it was quite obvious to me that there are a lot of people very
excited about the upcoming bass season. Here's hoping your efforts are rewarded with the
trophy of a lifetime this spring!
Good Fishing,
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1994
Table of Contents
"WINTER
FISHING - PARTY BOAT STYLE"
To a boat owner, the approach of the holidays spells the end of the fishing season here
in the northeast. Thoughts of delightful days on the water are replaced by concerns of
winterizing the boat to protect it from the elements of the harsh winter to come. For me,
this used to be a sad time, sort of like parting with a good friend. A few years ago,
however, I discovered that I could still enjoy the rewards of a day of fishing all through
the winter season. I discovered that fishing for cod on one of the local party boats was a
lot of fun and very rewarding.
Party boat fishing for cod in the winter is not at all like drifting for fluke on a
balmy day in July. As such, it requires some important preparation. Protection from the
cold ranks high on the priority list. If one would also hope to bag a few tasty cod to
grace the holiday table, then some thought should be given to tactics and tackle.
Living in Babylon, I find it most convenient to patronize the boats at Captree. I have
found that familiar faces and the development of a rapport with the captain, crew and
regular customers from one area or boat is most valuable.
As for choosing a boat to sail with, I suggest trying a couple of different boats at
the beginning. Each boat has its own particular style and attributes. When you find one
that is comfortable for you, patronize that boat as a regular. Remember that it is a
business in which regular customers are valued highly. Crews are more willing to go the
extra distance for a regular customer. While on the subject of crews, their regular salary
is nothing to brag about. They depend upon tips to make a descent day's pay.
Winter weather is an important consideration in planning a trip. During this time of
year, windless, warm and dry days are almost unheard of, and a certain amount of
discomfort is to be expected. However, to board a boat when the forecast calls for winds
in excess of 20 mph., temperatures below 20 degrees, and a possibility of sleet or snow is
asking for trouble. For these reasons, I avoid long range plans. I listen to the forecasts
and wait for the right day, usually finalizing my plan the night before.
Concerning proper dress, the rule is light but warm. Layers of lighter weight clothing
provide warmth without restricting movement. A quality set of lightweight thermal
underwear, such as made by Helly Hansen, warm street clothes and a set of coveralls
containing thinsulate is usually sufficient for basic warmth. Insulated waterproof boots
and gloves are a must, as is a heavy duty set of foul weather gear for when conditions get
sloppy or for added warmth. Don't forget that a great amount of body heat is lost from an
uncovered head, so a quality woolen watchcap that can be pulled down over the ears is also
in order. In addition, winter seas are usually lumpy even on windless days, so take the
normal precautions to prevent seasickness.
Well, how about catching fish? In my experience, I have found that two rules pay off
with fish most often. Keep terminal tackle to a minimum and get it where the other guys
aren't.
The first part is easy. I use a single 7/0 cod style snelled hook attached to a dropper
loop three feet above a sinker just heavy enough to hold bottom under the prevailing
conditions. I thread on a single skimmer clam, hooking it through the hard tissue several
times and running it on up the shank of the hook. This is all that I use, and I have been
high hook on the boat a number of times.
The process of getting your bait to be in the most productive spot can actually begin
long before the boat leaves the dock. What I am referring to is getting a prime position
from which to fish. Since this is a first come first pick affair, it might require
arriving at the boat an hour or two before sailing time. I consider the stern quarter to
be the best position on the boat. From this position a number of factors are in your
favor. Underhand casting can be directed both to the side and astern, thus covering more
territory. Baits fished astern from a boat at anchor will not be dragged by currents and
are usually the first to be encountered by cod moving up current to the smells of these
offerings. Your fishing line also will not run under the boat as it undergoes its normal
shifting from side to side. If a stern position is not available, I would take the bow as
my second choice. This area provides a degree of advantage similar to the stern, and in
addition, is usually not too crowded.
What kind of tackle should you use? My suggestion is to keep it as light as possible
but of high quality. Large metal spool reels just cannot cast the distance necessary.
Heavy line inhibits casting and requires an excessive amount of sinker weight in order to
stay put on the bottom. Double hook rigs with three skimmers on each again restrict
casting and are prone to move in the current. I have never been outfished by someone
employing such gear or techniques.
I use a Penn 970 reel, as it is compact but strong and made for casting. In addition,
it has a high speed retrieve, and a very smooth drag system. Many people laugh when they
see this reel being used for cod, especially when it is spooled with only 25 lb. test
line. It has caught 40lb. cod and for that matter 40lb. striped bass with no problems in
the past. I do splice in a ten foot section of 40lb. mono to the terminal end of my
running line in order to prevent breakage of the lighter line at the hook and sinker
connection. For a rod, I use an eight foot fast taper medium-heavy blank, preferably
graphite. I utilize a minimum of guides and only cork tape on the butt section to which I
tape on the reel using a number of wraps of electrical tape. This keeps the outfit light
and allows placement of the reel so as to allow for the best casting leverage. With this
combination, I can easily cast 75-100 feet and thus get my bait out there all alone and
looking good for the first hungry codfish that swims toward the boat.
Good Fishing,
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1995
Table of Contents
"A TALE OF TWO BASS
FISHERMEN"
Otherwise known as
"THE DAY OF THE BIG
BASS"
"It was the best of times, it was the worst of times". Sound familiar? Well,
this story has a little of both to be told. I could not tell the story of how I caught a
65 pound striped bass without there being a moral or a few lessons attached. That would be
too much like bragging!
It began like one of the many fishing adventures that Len Lapsys and I have had since
we have known each other. The weather was good and the anticipation for tangling with
stripers was high. Our juices were flowing, we were excited, just like kids in a candy
store.
The fishing had been good and steadily improving over the last two weeks before that
late October day. We had great expectations! We were loaded with excellent live bait, a
dozen blackfish and at least four dozen eels. Little did I expect that this would all be
needed. How happy I am that it was not eleven blackfish!
We began fishing near the inlet, on the ebbing tide, early that morning and immediately
were into fish. About half the fish we were catching were legal keeper size of 36 inches.
We released all these fish waiting for a big one. We had our hearts set on catching a good
sized fish, one of at least 30 pounds or more. We were having a great time, enjoying all
the action and glad to see the great numbers of bass that at one time had been so scarce.
This enjoyable situation did not last long, and rapidly degenerated into a nerve
wracking experience. As the number of boats increased with the late risers entering into
the scene, the mugging as I call it, became unbearable.
Mugging on the water is no doubt a lot more common than in our inner cities. Instead of
taking your money or pocketbook, the fish muggers take away your opportunity to fish as
you would like to, in a spot that you found first. Muggers do not do very much on their
own. They certainly do not invest any of their time in finding a productive area where
they can fish on their own. They position themselves where they see some boats and usually
search with their binoculars to spot a fish being caught. Sometimes they will stop nearby
and ogle you as if you were naked, waiting for you to do something that they might be able
to copy. They then run right up to the boat that is catching the fish and casually drop
in, close enough to have a conversation in whisper tones. They also will usually run
directly over the fish, spooking them, instead of circling the area when returning to make
a new drift. They are prone to short drift, dropping in on the down-tide side of your
boat, so they can pass over the productive spot first. These people would probably not
stare in public or invade someone's private space, but on the water they seem to think it
is perfectly acceptable to be obnoxious. Sometimes I really can't keep from laughing at
their foolish attempt to appear casual. In general, when this happens, things get chaotic,
and fishing becomes a lot less fun.
On this particular day it was worse than ever. Although fish were being caught in
several of the productive inlet areas, whenever I would move to escape the muggers and
explore other promising areas, they would follow with a vengeance.
At one point that day, near the end of the ebbing tide, I dropped a small marker buoy
to help me align my drift. I will sometimes do this during increasing or decreasing tide
flow, when the wind is blowing across the line of the drift. These conditions make it
particularly difficult to line up a drift so that the boat will pass directly over what is
usually a small productive piece of bottom. On each successive drift the tidal force is
changing and the wind will effect the direction of drift to some varying degree. This is
common during the last hour and first hour of a tide. With a small marker buoy and a
little use of the boat engine, a close pass can usually be accomplished.
I should have known better than to attempt this maneuver, but I figured that moving a
good distance away from all the boats, to an area that was quiet, would get me some
breathing space. I dropped my marker near a small ledge that I knew had produced fish in
the past and proceeded to make some short drifts near it. Len and I each caught a fish on
the second pass and marked a good bunch on the video recorder. Within five minutes
however, the boats descended upon us like a pack of wolves. They surrounded us, drifted
over my buoy, fouled it in their lines, and dragged it all over the place. As a result of
the commotion I am sure, the big body of fish I had marked, moved from the area. I moved
too!
The reality of that day and just about any other day during the peak of the bass run,
is that there are fish in many spots. Almost every move that I made produced fish. Some of
the places that were productive, were places I had never previously tried, others were old
honey holes. Finding the fish is a very big part of the excitement of bass fishing. The
bass mugger never allows himself the opportunity for this enjoyment. There is a lesson to
be learned; you don't have to fish where everybody else is fishing in order to catch fish.
When you do catch in your own spot, you will appreciate and enjoy it much more.
Another observation I have made over the years is that the big fish tend to group
together and, the biggest of the big feed first. This is the other great advantage to
finding new spots, moving from place to place, and being the first to fish a given area.
When I am bass fishing, I am always looking for the big fish. If I catch a small fish or
two, I will move, looking for the bigger ones. When I find them, the biggest one is
usually caught first. I guess they are the best at what they do, that's how they got so
big. On that day I moved more than I would have liked to, but as it turned out, it worked
out for the best.
When the tide shifted to incoming, the flood, many boats headed for home. I guess
someone told them that bass only feed on the ebbing tide. The same person probably told
them where to fish. When the tide changed and the fishing stopped in that spot, it
probably never occurred to them that another spot might produce more fish. Most likely
they just didn't want to spend some of their own time learning about the ways of the bass.
Instant gratification of the unearned type permeates our society.
Len and I decided that we would not quit until we had caught a big fish, ran out of
bait, or ran out of energy. I continued to keep moving, trying all likely areas, but now
not impeded by the opportunists that were so numerous earlier in the day. At this point,
it was really Len's spirit and determination that kept us going. He is as dedicated and
accomplished at the art of fishing as one could ever be. Len knows that patience usually
pays big dividends. He is willing to stick it out through the slow times because
experience has taught him that better times will come. "Paying your dues",
"Putting in your time", these expressions are the hallmark of the successful and
fulfilled fisherman. Onward we went!
It was after about two hours of no action, no marks on the machine, and ready to make
the proverbial last drift, that we hit the mother lode. On the first drift through the
area, we both had runoffs. On the second drift and every one after for the next two hours,
we were into a fish. These fish however, were not the average size fish that we were
catching all season and earlier that day, most of them were large, 25 to 35 pounds. In
keeping with my philosophy, one of the first fish caught in that spot was a good keeper. I
put it on my hand scale and it registered 38 pounds. Len decided he wanted to keep it but
it would not fit in my aft fish box. We laid it on the deck and kept it wet during all the
hot action that followed.
Not knowing how big a fish we would boat or how long the action would last made it
difficult to resist the temptation to keep our second fish which would then fill our
limit. We were determined however to not take anything short of a real trophy. I am sure
that several fish we released were over the 40 pound mark. At this point the tide was
easing up, and we were running out of bait. Eels were the hot bait that day and we had run
out. Between the bluefish chop-off and other normal attrition, we were at that point down
to two live blackfish. As the tide slowed to a crawl, the action died. Was it over? Was
that it for a great day of fishing? Of course not, we still had two baits left!
I decided to push our luck and try one last spot before calling it quits. We still had
bait and room for one more fish so we made a move and dropped in another spot, once again
all alone and with beautiful drifting conditions. As soon as my bait, blackfish number
twelve, hit the bottom, I had a strong pick-up and runoff. I struck the fish to set the
hook and pulled the bait from its mouth. I could tell from the resistance on the line that
the bait was still on the hook, so I immediately dropped back line, free-spooling the reel
to allow the blackfish to stand still near the fish I just missed. In a couple of seconds
it paid off as I was again picked up with a strong take and tremendous runoff. I struck,
and this time set the hook in the fish. At the same time, Len got hung in the bottom. My
fish took a nonstop run for the shallows near the beach. In fact, the fish nearly beached
itself and was thrashing about, half submerged in about six inches of water, trying to
shake the hook. He had stripped about seventy five yards of line from my Penn 25 GLS reel.
Before I could concentrate on this fish which I knew had to be a good size, I had to try
to save Len's bait, which was hung on bottom. I tried to maneuver the boat to free it but
we ended up breaking it off. So much for any more fishing after we hopefully boated my
fish.
I slowly worked the fish toward the boat from the deep water where it ran after the
beach routine did not work. I knew the fish was big, and I had my hopes up for at least
the upper forties and maybe, if the Gods were smiling, a fifty pounder. When the fish
broke water about fifty feet behind the boat and then sounded again, its tail came
completely out of the water. It looked like a broom! I new then it was really big. I told
Len to get the big gaff and be ready. I finally worked the fish to the side of the boat,
and we were both astounded at the size of the fish. I knew immediately it was at least
fifty pounds. Len, having always seen me lip gaffing bass so they could be released and
being used to lip gaffing big tarpon he fishes down south, naturally went to lip gaff the
fish in its huge gaping mouth. He managed to get hold of a good bit of tissue and started
to haul the fish over the side. As all of the weight of the fish came to bear on the gaff,
it tore free and the fish fell back into the water. I had the instant realization that the
fish would probably break off. Experience paid off as I immediately dropped the tip of the
rod deep into the water to give me the split second required to disengage the drag and
thumb the spool. This allowed a controlled drop-back and prevented the 25 pound test Ande
line from snapping, which it would have if it had come taut. I once again slowly worked
the fish to the boat, and this time we successfully gaffed and boated the fish.
When we laid the fish on the deck next to the 38 pounder we had caught earlier, it
dwarfed that fish. I tried my fifty pound scale, and it smacked hard against the bottom.
Len and I were both overjoyed. We had put together the finest bass fishing day of both our
lives. We had more than achieved our goals for the day and for the season, despite the
earlier adversities of the day. We had hung in there and kept looking, trying on our own,
and being successful and rewarded all day for out efforts. We had caught our trophy fish,
used up all of our bait and run out of energy doing it. It was a great adventure shared
between good friends. It doesn't get any better!
Good Fishing,
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1991
Published in "The Fisherman" 1991
Table of Contents
"BUCKTAIL LURES --- RIGGING AND JIGGING"
For every serious fisherperson, another story about the bucktail lure must also exist.
There have been books and articles too numerous to count written about the subject. I have
read many myself, some good and some bad, but in every one that I can remember, there was
always something new to be offered. Over the years, I have incorporated these little
tricks and variations with my own hard earned experience. This has allowed me to develop a
system and technique that works well for me in the areas that I fish.
The bucktail is a very basic lure, in itself just a few hairs tied to a leadhead jig.
It will no doubt catch a bluefish if thrown into a school in a feeding frenzy, but, it
will do much more than that if some subtle but important variations are considered. Depth
of water, current conditions, target species and their diet should all be considered in
organizing a system and technique that will work the best at a given time in a given area.
Probably the most important consideration in fishing a bucktail is the fact that the
lure has no built in action. It will either drag across the bottom or run a straight line
if retrieved. If fished this way it will catch fish but success will improve
astronomically if some sort of action is added by the angler. This translates into work
and constant attention to technique, fishing a bucktail is not laid back lazy fishing.
What is most amazing about a bucktail is its versatility. It will catch almost any game
fish. I have used it successfully in catching everything from white perch in tidal streams
to tuna in bluewater. In these instances, the only difference was the size of the lure and
a different style of retrieve. I most commonly use the bucktail to catch weakfish, fluke,
bass and bluefish.
In choosing the correct size bucktail to use, three considerations must be taken into
account: the size of the target fish, the depth of water and the amount of current. I have
found bucktails to be most effective when worked on or very near the bottom as most fish
are generally bottom feeders. An exception to this rule would be bluefish, but even they
will move to the bottom to feed. The rule of thumb to apply is simple: use the lightest,
smallest bucktail possible that will still allow the lure to remain on or very near the
bottom. With deeper water and swift current, larger weight versions must be used. This
becomes a limiting factor if the target specie is small. The size of the bucktail that
must be used may just be too large to attract the fish you are looking to catch. Something
to think about here would be line size. Lighter, small diameter line will not require as
much weight as it has less of a drag coefficient in passing through the moving water. I
will rarely use greater than 15 lb. test line in working bucktails and often use lighter
line of 10 lb. or 12 lb. test. Bucktail head weights come in a great variety of sizes from
1/16 ounce to 6 ounce but most commonly used for inshore saltwater fishing are those from
1/4 ounce to 1 1/2 ounce.
Head shape can vary greatly, ball, bullet, flat, tapered, "smiling bill"
etc.. I usually stick with the "smiling bill" or ball design. I must say that I
have not really seen a great difference in productivity regarding head design other than
when fishing a hard current, a more streamlined head such as the bullet design, will hold
bottom more effectively.
For fluke, smaller is better and I have most success with 1/4 ounce to 3/4 ounce
bucktails. This is not saying that a large fluke of five pounds or more wouldn't take a 2
ounce bucktail but it would also ingest a 1/2 ounce version. It is more likely that a
large fish will attack a smaller lure than a small fish attack a large lure. In addition,
there are more small fish that fit in a frying pan just perfectly! This is something to
consider in all bucktail fishing.
Bluefish and weakfish tend to run in schools with most fish all of similar size. For
either specie when under four pounds, I prefer bucktails of 1/2 ounce to 3/4 ounce. When
the larger specimens of 5 to 15 pounds are around, I then switch to 1 to 1 1/2 ounce
weights.
Bass can be a great challenge in that their size can vary greatly from little schoolies
of 2 to 3 lbs. up to cows of 40 lbs. or more. I would bet that most bucktail caught bass
would average between 5 and 15 lbs. therefore I usually start out with a 1 1/2 ounce
bucktail and move up or down in weight depending upon my success or the size of any fish
that I might catch.
In my opinion, the most critical factor in being successful with a bucktail is the
presentation or action imparted by the angler. This is such a crucial factor that it can
account for anything from getting skunked to enjoying a fishing bonanza. I have seen two
individuals fishing the same bucktail on the same outfit on the same boat, each with
totally opposite results. The difference was all in the action imparted to the lure.
My favorite method for fishing the bucktail is to bounce the lure with a twitch of the
wrist, letting the lure fall back to the bottom until the "bump" signals that it
has come to rest. This can be done by simply working the rod without retrieving line when
there is a good drift, or taking a couple of cranks in between lifts when stationary or
when tidal movement is very slow. I continue the process varying the speed and height of
the lift and time on the bottom. I will try different combinations for short intervals of
time. For example, a sharp lift of one foot, a slow drop back and one second at rest on
the bottom. I will repeat this motion for ten or fifteen cycles. I might then alter the
pattern to slow lift of one foot, followed by the same slow drop back and one second of
rest on the bottom. I always vary only one factor at a time so that when I get a strike, I
will know which aspect of the action in my retrieve is the most enticing. I may therefore
be able to accentuate this action, knowing exactly what it is. In general, the most
productive retrieve I have utilized is the fast, short twitch followed by a slow
controlled drop-back with a one half to full one second rest on the bottom.
As you might guess from this discussion, the manner in which the lure is worked on the
retrieve is what catches the fish. Each different specie of fish and set of conditions
will generally require a slight variation in the action to be most productive. It is most
important to experiment in order to find the most enticing action and then to duplicate
that exact action on every cast and retrieve. Invariably the strike will come at the end
of the drop back or as the lure sits on the bottom. The angler must be ready to set the
hook with a sharp lift as soon as the strike is felt. An artificial lure will be spit out
as quickly as it was hit and therefore speed is of the essence. For this reason, the slow
controlled drop-back is most productive. In lowering the tip of the rod slowly, no slack
is produced in the line and even the slightest strike will be felt. In addition, it will
allow the "bump" of the jig on the bottom to be felt and prevent any delay in
setting the hook.
Graphite rods with their great sensitivity and strength are exceptional for fishing
bucktails. My favorites are the Penn Power Stick bait-casting outfits matched to the size
of the lure. For 3/4 ounce or less I use the PBC-60M rod with Penn 1000 or Penn 920 reel
and 10 lb. test Ande line. For 1 ounce and heavier lures I use the Penn PPG-4971 rod with
Penn 930 reel and 15 lb. Ande line. I keep all my bucktail hooks needle sharp so as to
insure deep penetration and firm hook setting.
As you can tell, conventional revolving spool reels are my favorite for this type of
fishing. However, when jigging also requires a fast retrieve, I will shift to spinning
gear which generally has a faster retrieve ratio. My favorite for this situation for all
lures up to 1 1/2 ounce is the Penn PSG-4871 rod with 4400 SS reel spooled with 10 lb.
test Ande "Classic" line which is very soft and well suited to spinning gear.
Another consideration when using bucktails is line twist that is produced by the
jigging action. In working the lure as I have described, occasionally the bucktail will
make a complete roll of 360 degrees. This will put a turn in your line and eventually
produce problems with the line twisting around the tip of the rod and casting
difficulties. To prevent this from happening, I pre-rig all my bucktails with a small
barrel swivel at the end of a short trace of leader material that is appropriate to the
size of the lure. I generally use about one foot of 20 lb. test mono and a barrel swivel
rated at 50 to 75 lb. test. To prevent "chopoffs" when bluefish are my primary
target, I substitute plastic coated multi-strand wire as my leader material.
The actual appearance of the bucktail in addition to the way it is worked is what
determines its overall effectiveness. Considerations in this regard would include jig
color, length of hair and whether or not it is "tipped off" with some kind of
additional attractant.
Most bucktails commercially produced are of fairly good quality. When purchasing
bucktails, the most important consideration in addition to color or head shape, is quality
construction. Make sure the winding that holds the hair in place is well tied and coated
to prevent abrasion damage and that the hook is of good quality. A visual inspection to
details will usually suffice but actual use will be the true test of quality. I have
recently been using the "Fin Strike" bucktail and it has proven to be excellent
in both quality and effectiveness.
The most common bucktail colors available are white, red/white and yellow. I use white
most often with excellent results. Yellow has been very productive for me in years when
blowfish are abundant. I believe the yellow bucktail can be taken for a small blowfish on
the run, and many gamefish will feed upon these tasty morsels. A good habit to get in to
is to check the stomach contents of any fish that are kept and cleaned. It will allow you
to determine what they are feeding upon and therefore you can "match the hatch"
the next time out. This past year, bright green bucktails appeared in the tackle shops. I
gave them a try and they have worked well. I have had good catches of small weakfish and
fluke using the bright green version in 1/2 ounce size.
"Tipping off" the bucktail jig with a piece of squid, pork rind or even a
small jelly worm, greatly enhances its effectiveness. I find the pork rind to be the most
convenient since it does not have to be maintained as does fresh bait, is always available
in my tackle box, and is so tough that one piece will last all day. I always trim the size
of the pork rind to match the size of the bucktail. In addition, I split the tail to give
it a greater fluttering action. Most varieties of pork rinds available in tackle shops
will not be the exact size or shape for your needs but a sharp knife will produce just
what is required. For this reason I purchase the largest rinds, the "striper
/muskie" strips, and cut them down to size. Remember to punch a hook hole in the
leading end with the tip of the knife.
One last little trick worth mentioning concerns short hitting fish. On a number of
occasions for reasons I have yet to figure out, the fish seem to not really mouth the lure
firmly when they strike. The result is many hits but few hookups. When this occurs I have
improved my results by trimming back the hairs on the lure. I will thin out the hair by
cutting some away right up front where they are tied to the lead head and additionally cut
and taper the ends of the hair so they end right at the bend in the hook. This effectively
moves the hook back into the strike zone of these short hitting fish and will produce more
hookups.
Hopefully you will find more good than bad in what I have written regarding the
bucktail. At least it may provide some food for thought and give you something to add to
your bag of tricks.
Good Fishing
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1991
Published in "The Fisherman" 1991
Table of Contents
"DID
YOU EVER CHUM A POLLOCK?"
Years ago, I had the honor and privilege to fish with Capt. Charles Fischett on his
boat the Three Daughters. My father and he were good friends and fishing buddies and I
would often join in with the crew for some memorable fishing experiences.
What a crew it was, my father Al Lorenzetti Sr., Larry Christie, Bill Koehler, Paul
Percodani, Arty Bethel and many others on various occasions. A welcomed guest on many
outings was the retired but most revered old timer of salt water angling in the northeast,
Capt. Herb Fogarty, captain of the Bojean.
Back in the late sixties and early seventies, it was this captain and crew that taught
me much of what I know about fishing, especially wreck fishing.
In those days, wreck fishing was restricted to only those individuals who were tried
and true seamen. Loran existed, but only in its most crude form utilizing "A
band" and manually operated AP-9 receivers. On the best of days, the closest fix one
might hope for was perhaps one quarter of a mile. Needless to say, good navigation,
extensive search patterns, knowledge of bottom contours and a little luck were required to
finally locate and set up on a wreck, especially those far offshore. The rewards for this
effort however, were fantastic!
Because of the difficulty in locating such wrecks, when finally located, they were
essentially virgin, and loaded with fish. On many occasions we quit fishing when our arms
were tired or we simply said we have enough fish, usually cod and pollock.
Of all the types of fish we caught on the wrecks, pollack were the most fun. A cod is a
bulldog and really fine table fare but nothing can compare to the first run of a pollock
caught in deep water. Their nickname is "Boston Blue" due to a similarity in how
they fight and the methods used to catch them. Can you imagine doing battle with a thirty
to forty pound bluefish! The initial hit and run is awesome, it can make you weak in the
knees as it often did to me.
Pollock respond well to deep jigging above the superstructure of the wreck, or to baits
suspended above the feeding zone of the cod and bait stealing bergalls. Do not hesitate to
dangle a baited hook ten to twenty feet above the bottom as it will usually be picked up
by a roving pollock.
The best part of finding a wreck with a good population of pollock residing nearby is
the possibility of chumming the school right up to the back of the boat. Pollock will
respond to a chum line of ground bunker just as well as a school of bluefish.
In order to pull the pollock off the wreck with the chum, it is necessary to position
the boat up-current from the wreck. If you are anchored directly above the wreck as is
usual for cod fishing, it will require a repositioning of the anchor. The goal is to have
the chum settle to the wreck so that the pollock have a trail to follow to the boat. This
process usually will take about one half hour in order to attract the fish to the boat, if
they are going to respond to the offering. If there is not a response after a reasonable
time, the anchor line can simply be paid out to let the boat resettle above or at the edge
of the wreck to resume codfishing.
The fishing technique utilized for this type of fishing would be similar to chumming
bluefish except the wire leaders can be done away with as pollock are essentially
toothless. Pollock are however somewhat more line-shy and definitely more picky about what
they will accept as a hook bait. I am convinced however that a pollack cannot pass on a
whole baby squid. I suggest the kind sold in the five pound boxes in the supermarket,
usually labeled as California calamari. Light tackle is sporting and makes dropping back
the bait into the chum slick more manageable. A Penn "Squidder" or possibly the
new 310 GTi reel on a matching rod like the Penn Power Stick PC-3601L would be ideal.
Conventional revolving spool reels are best suited for this type of fishing. A 5/0 to 7/0
short shank hook tied directly to the line with a clinch or palomar knot is most
convenient. Perhaps a small rubber core sinker might be required to keep the bait
uniformly descending with the chum.
The most successful approach is to slowly let the bait drift back with the current. If
the fish are coming to the boat, the first hit may occur at a fairly good distance back,
possibly 100-150 feet or even more. Hopefully the fish will then move much closer to the
boat attracted by the chum and will probably settle in about fifty feet back. If they do,
this will be the ultimate pollock catching experience. Do not be afraid to feed out a lot
of line in trying to find the first fish. Eventually your line should end up near the
wreck and you may be able to hook up with cod or pollock right from the wreck itself. On
most occasions when this has happened, the combination of close proximity to the wreckage,
and lots of stretch in the line results in fish getting into the wreck and breaking off.
On some occasions it did seem however, that when a fish was pulled from the wreck, the
rest of the school followed the hooked fish to the boat. It is a worthwhile policy to let
out a good piece of line in trying to get things going.
The only disadvantage in attempting this type of fishing these days is the overfished
condition of many of the wrecks. Because of this, those wrecks that lie farther offshore
will be better choices as they are fished less. Pollock themselves tend to favor fairly
deep water. I would recommend wrecks such as the Virginia, Bidivend, West wreck, or the
Texas Tower or others in the 150-200 foot range.
Early spring, around April and into May has usually been the best time of year but they
can be caught at anytime on those wrecks in the deeper water.
As is the case with most fishing experiences, a little extra effort and knowledge goes
a long way. Having to make an anchor adjustment when settled on a deep wreck is not what I
would call fun, but if you don't give it a try, you may miss one of the best fishing
experiences of your life!
Good Fishing,
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1990
Table of Contents
"CHUNKING TUNA AT THE BACARDI"
"HOW GOOD IS GOOD"
The hottest news on the fishing scene for the past few years has been the development
of a tuna fishery employing "stand up tackle" and "chunking"
techniques. "Chunking" simply involves the use of whole or sectioned,
"chunked" baitfish to produce a chum line to attract the desired gamefish. In
the case of tuna, it has attracted a lot of attention because it offers several distinct
advantages over trolling which had previously been the method of choice for most
sportfishermen.
"Chunking" is essentially still fishing, used while drifting or most often at
anchor. As such, it saves wear and tear on the boat's machinery. The cost of fuel is also
greatly reduced, usually more than offsetting the cost of chunking bait. I personally find
this type of fishing very relaxing and enjoyable compared to trolling. A long day of
trolling while listening to the roar of the motors and bouncing through the waves is not
my idea of having fun especially when the fishing is slow. This "chunking"
method, besides proving to be very effective, has allowed the party boat fleet and their
loyal customers an opportunity to partake of some very exciting big game fishing, as
trolling was simply out of the question for these type of boats. As a result, many new
anglers who previously could not afford to own and operate a large sportfishing boat, now
have an opportunity to enjoy this type of fishing. This has been a boon to the
manufacturers of "stand up" fishing tackle and other related gear which is well
suited for this type of fishing. It has brought a lot of activity to the industry and
attracted the attention of a much larger segment of sportsmen and sportswomen.
As I write, the 1990 season is just about ended. In fact, the quota for school and
medium bluefins has been filled and only giant bluefins and other species may still be
taken. With winter winds already starting to blow, the end is surely not far away. In
assessing the past season one would have to say it was a good one. The tuna settled in
around the wreck of the Bacardi and around the forty fathom curve southeast of Shinnecock
Inlet and the fishing was excellent right into October. "Chunking" was at it's
best, and many people enjoyed themselves immensely in tangling with these great gamefish.
Although fishing was good to excellent in the deep offshore areas, it was disappointing
that no real inshore fishery in the 20-40 mile range ever developed. Were all the fish
being held at the Bacardi and Forty Fathoms by the huge fleet of chunkers and draggers
that worked these areas? Was it because the inshore waters are polluted? Was it because
the number of fish have been depleted and just a matter of not enough to go around? No one
knows the answers for sure, but regardless of what they are, it was a disappointment for
the small boat owner that could not safely make the long run to these areas. This all
brings me to the heart of the matter, over-fishing and abuse of the fish stocks.
The greatest disappointment of the season was the appearance once again of a small
group of unsporting, greedy, destructive individuals. Rather than enjoy lots of action and
releasing fish while keeping a reasonable amount of the larger fish, these individuals
proceeded to keep every fish that could be brought aboard. What amazed me is that they
boasted about the fact that they caught so many fish and also found some publication to
print and therefore broadcast their great "success". The old ignorant attitude
that bringing in the most fish makes one a great fisherman, and that they should command
the respect of the rest of the sportfishing community, is still present amongst us. In
reality, their actions driven by their "macho" attitude and greed for a fast
buck in selling the fish to "foreigners" has shown the true colors of these
individuals. They are not sportfishermen nor are they even good fishermen. They are in a
very distinct group all to themselves and yet damaging to the entire fishing community.
They are selfish, ignorant abusers!
As you can probably sense, I am not happy about this situation. When I sit back and
think about the situation, I remember how it has always happened in the past. A few
misguided, shortsighted selfish individuals both in the sportfishing and commercial
sectors have, in large part, led to the destruction of an entire fishery. It occurred with
the weakfish, swordfish, striped bass and bluefin and appears to be heading that way for
several other species, yellowfin and bluefish included.
It seems that only legislated regulations may save the fish populations. Regulations
have seemed to help in a number of situations. A noteworthy example is the recent success
with striped bass conservation measures. However, many management acts are shortsighted or
not quite as effective as they were planned to be. As an example, the inadequacy of the
Magnuson Act in protecting tuna.
I believe that conservation efforts on the part of organizations like the New York
Sportfishing Federation are beginning to take hold. They have been successful in having
meaningful legislation approved. However, it is still the responsibility of the individual
to get directly involved in trying to protect this valuable resource.
The greatest threat to the future of sportfishing lies in maintaining the quality of
the environment, but also important is the reduction in the total amount of fish taken, so
as to maintain a healthy spawning population. In this regard, I believe it is an
individual's responsibility to speak up when you see someone breaking the law and keeping
an excessive number of fish or undersize fish. Tell them directly to their face that you
do not approve or that you will report them.
Keep on top of proposed legislation, especially with regard to commercial fishing
regulations. Commercial fishing has the potential with modern equipment and techniques, to
deplete an entire fishery in a very short time. The use of non selective "dirty"
gear such as haul-seines, gillnets and longlines, can be very damaging to a fish
population.
Everyone should get personally involved. A good place to begin would be to let your
legislators know how you feel regarding the attempt by a small group of commercial
fishermen to reopen a full scale commercial fishery for striped bass. Remember how
plentiful they once were? Remember how scarce they became? Most of all, remember how they
came back when commercial fishing was stopped and only a reasonable number were allowed to
be caught by sportfishermen? I remember!
Good Fishing,
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1990
Table of Contents
DFI: A NEW REVOLUTION IN OUTBOARD ENGINE TECHNOLOGY
Direct Fuel Injection or DFI is now at the marketplace. Spurred on by Environmental
Protection Agency (EPA) regulations governing exhaust emissions, Mercury Marine has
produced a clean burning, fuel efficient outboard engine design.
Present outboard engines are almost all two-stroke in design. These engines run on a
mixture of gas and oil that is directed into the cylinders by a carburetor or fuel
injectors. The problem with this type of system is that some of the fuel and oil mix is
not completely burned. This is necessary as this unburned residue is what lubricates the
moving parts of the engine. The problem that exists however is that some of this residue
escapes with the exhaust gases and enters the water in which the engine is running. Visual
proof of this is evident in the form of a blue cloud of smoke that always is produced by
outboards, especially when they are running at slow speed or at idle. These exhaust gases
pollute our environment.
The EPA was keenly aware of this problem. Tough environmental and exhaust emission
regulations were enacted which begin to take effect in 1998 and gradually increase in
restrictions and standards through 2006. Mercury Marine has taken a giant step to not only
meet these tough new standards but to aggressively go beyond with this new technology.
Together with Australia’s Orbital Engine Corporation, Mercury Marine has developed
a completely new line of DFI engines marketed under the trade name of OptiMax. These new
engines currently meet and surpass the EPA standards for 2006. They offer exceptional
performance and fuel economy in addition to being environmentally friendly.
This new design has been thoroughly tested for several years and commercially proven
last season with introduction of their 3.0 liter V-6 DFI 200 horsepower outboard.
My statement, "exceptional performance and fuel economy" is really
understated. One can expect a savings of 80-percent less fuel burned at low speeds and
40-percent less at cruising speed. In addition there is virtually no smoke produced at any
speed including at idle. The potential for fuel savings in the course of a season are
enormous.
How can this all be possible? Not without an incredible amount of research and
development. In essence, an entirely new system was developed. I will briefly summarize
what makes it work so well.
The Mercury DFI system still utilizes the mechanically efficient two-stroke design. A
compressor and fuel injector for each cylinder directs a high pressure fuel/air mixture
into the combustion chamber. The heart of this system is a ECM (electronic control module)
which monitors all the action, adjusting all vital engine functions and warning systems.
Because fuel is precisely measured first, then injected as desired, maximum efficiency
(99.9 percent of the fuel charge is burned) is achieved. An electronic multipoint
lubrication system keeps everything running smoothly by monitoring and delivering oil
directly to the cylinders for precise lubrication. This reduces oil consumption and
exhaust emissions therefore NO SMOKE!
After successfully introducing this new concept in 1996, Mercury has fine tuned the
product, adding to the engine’s performance, fuel efficiency and durability. No test
is tougher than that given a product by the average consumer. Mercury has more than met
the challenge in all respects.
The 1998 OptiMax product line (available in July 1997) will include models in 135 and
150 horsepower (2.5 liter block) and 200 and 225 horsepower (3.0 liter block) with
counter-rotation available for all models.
Mercury Marine is dedicated to this technology and to a clean environment. In the near
future, all models of 75 horsepower and higher will utilize DFI technology while all
engines below 75 horsepower will be four-stroke in design.
This innovation is one that must be considered by all boaters using outboard engines.
The next time you repower, OptiMax is the way to go!
For more information on Mercury’s product line and OptiMax engines contact Mercury
Marine at 1-800-MERCURY or visit their web site at <http://www.mercurymarine.com>.
Good Fishing and Boating,
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
Web Site: <http://www.skimmeroutdoors.com>
Ó Al Lorenzetti 1997
Published in "The Fire Island Express" 1997
Table of Contents
FISHING
THE GREAT SOUTH BAY
A FISHING PRIMER
The Great South Bay is a large and very rich environment. To "fish the bay"
is a tremendous understatement since covering all its diverse areas and resident fish
populations could probably take more than the average lifetime. Many newcomers to the
sport of fishing and even quite a few that have been at it for a while, take the
"whole bay" or "any specie" approach. This tactic, I have found, is
not very productive nor rewarding. It mostly produces frustration and probably very few
fish to show for the effort.
The problem in this approach is a lack of focus. Fish are not overly abundant anywhere
these days and fish have never been accused of being stupid. By this I mean that a
scattergun tactic of trying to catch any kind of fish, in any spot that seems to be
convenient, just will not work.
In order to have some success in fishing this great bay, one must concentrate his
efforts and focus upon one target specie at a time. To be more diverse than this will come
later, with more experience. Concentrating upon one specie means to learn whatever it
requires to outsmart your quarry. What I am basically saying is that education will bring
you success in fishing as it will in all life's other pursuits.
What are the things that should be learned in order to be successful? The following is
a list of what I believe to be basic knowledge required for success:
1. Some understanding of the life history, feeding habits and basic behavior of the
fish you will pursue.
2. Bottom configuration of the bay, including location of deep channels and underwater
obstructions.
3. Tidal flow, including the relationship between high and low tide and current changes
for the area you will fish.
4. Basic fishing tackle requirements best suited for the fishing you will do. Things
such as what rod, reel, line and terminal tackle configurations would be appropriate.
5. Bait and/or lures that are most productive for your target fish and whether or not
they are easily available.
To expect success on a regular basis without this basic knowledge is to invite
disappointment. Maybe you are looking at my list and thinking that you'll never have the
time to learn all of this. That is a possibility. However, it will really not take that
long to gain a fair understanding of the basics. A trip to the library and a look at
McClane's fishing encyclopedia will provide you with a good natural history background of
any of the fish that frequent the Great South Bay. This is a great source book for all
kinds of fishing information and a great starting point.
A trip to a local tackle store might be the source of everything else you need to know.
I suggest you try a tackle shop and not a tackle supermarket. The smaller shop owner or
worker will generally have greater knowledge to share with you and more time to do so.
Pick a time of day or evening when business is slow so that you do not interfere with them
doing business. Purchase your needs from the same store as much as possible. This will be
greatly appreciated and much information will be gladly shared with a regular customer.
Information about local tide and current conditions, bait, lures, tackle and probably a
chart of the bay will probably be readily available.
Many tackle shops are affiliated with local fishing clubs which are another great
source of fishing information. Many clubs offer fishing schools which you might attend to
learn more about all types of fishing.
A number of organizations such as the New York Sportfishing Federation, offer seminars
and lectures related to fishing our local waters. In fact, at this years Federation
Fishing Forum, I will be lecturing on basic techinques and strategies for fishing the
Great South Bay. Attending events such as these provides access to a wealth of information
which will all be helpful in making your fishing experience more rewarding.
With a fair background of knowledge such a I have described, you will have the ability
to concentrate your efforts in a most productive way. You will be able to make a fishing
plan that will probably incorporate the best area, time, tide, bait and tackle suited to
the fish you want to catch. With this type of planning and preparation, your chances of
success will be great. It may not be enough to catch a lot of fish every day as I can well
attest to, but it will provide you with the edge needed to enjoy catching your share!
Good Fishing,
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1991
Table of Contents
OFFSHORE
FLUKE --- BOTTOM STRUCTURE IS THE KEY!
In late summer and early fall, fluke fishing generally improves as these
predatory fish begin to feed with enthusiasm, preparing for their migration to the
continental shelf. The average fisherman is generally satisfied with the results of his
efforts during this time. Most days catches are usually sufficient, producing a meal and
maybe a little more for the freezer. What the average fluke fisherman doesn't realize
however, is that many of the bigger trophy fluke, in the four to ten pound range, have
already left the shallow bays and inlets to head offshore, feeding as they go.
It is my opinion that these larger fish begin their migratory run, drawn by their
natural instincts. Their natural instinct to feed however, is stronger at the beginning of
this migration, then is their drive to move on to deeper water.
As these fish move out onto the mostly sandy bottom of the Atlantic, heading for the
edges of the canyons where they will over-winter, they must occasionally move past
productive feeding areas. Wrecks, reefs, rockpiles, or bottom strewn with shell and
gravel, are like oases in the middle of the Sahara desert. They attract and hold numerous
baitfish by providing an anchoring surface for the microscopic and macroscopic life that
the baitfish consume, the beginning of the food chain.
When fluke encounter these areas they make a stop to fill their gut before moving on to
the depths. As a result, these areas hold and concentrate enough fluke to make the fishing
very worthwhile, and often producing a good number of bragging size doormats.
In order to partake of this type of fishing, one must first know the whereabouts of
these productive bottom structures. My recommendation is to begin with one of the many
artificial reefs which have been constructed within easy reach of many of the coastal
inlets. These reefs are generally in the 50 ft. to 75 ft. depth range which is ideal. In
addition, these reefs are sometimes marked by buoys and/or have published loran
coordinates of their position. These reefs provide a rather large productive and fishable
area since they are usually built from a collection of smaller masses of material that
tend to scatter when deposited, and become at least partially covered with sand. This is
better than a single large wreck which actually will have much less productive habitat
around it. In addition, large wrecks have a tendency to devour much terminal tackle.
In order to be successful with some degree of consistency, two pieces of electronics
are an absolute must, a loran and preferably a video recorder. The loran is essential in
order to find the generalized fishing area at the onset of the trip, but its usefulness
does not end there. When fish are hopefully caught, a quick notation of the specific
coordinates will allow one to be able to make repeated drifts over the same spot where
most likely more fish can be caught. An alternative to working with the loran would be to
drop a marker buoy when a fish is caught and then, figuring wind and tide, make repeated
drifts passing over or near the marked area.
The most productive area around bottom debris extends outward to a limit of about fifty
feet. The ideal situation would be to make a drift beginning at the immediate side of the
structure and then moving along its perimeter or away from it. Maneuvering into this
position can be quite difficult without the aid of a good quality recorder. When fishing
inshore areas, landmarks can be used for ranges and triangulation, but offshore, this
convenience is not usually available. In my opinion, video recorders provide the best
picture, literally. They can clearly show even a fine layer of rubble that surrounds most
pieces of wreckage. A high quality paper recorder is also suitable and provides a
permanent record of the piece you are working for future reference. I personally have both
pieces of gear and use them both, but still would prefer the color video if I had to
choose one. I have still to be shown a LCD recorder that can even come close to what I
would consider sufficient for the task.
In preparing to fish, once in the general area, I run the boat in a north-south or
east-west grid and drop marker buoys directly on the high pieces of bottom structure. I
use two liter plastic soda bottles with an appropriate length of 80 lb. dacron line and a
sash weight as markers. I then settle the boat near the buoys to determine the direction
of drift. The boat is then positioned so that it will drift alongside or better, between
the marker buoys but not directly over the structure. I continually watch the recorder so
that in the event that the boat does drift over a large piece of wreckage, the fishing
lines can be raised or pulled in before they become fouled in the debris. The recorder can
also tell visually, when to lower the lines so that the baits will drop in right next to
the structure.
Once an area has been worked over with no results, I will move on to one of the other
spots that have been marked or hopefully continue the drift on to another area. It is not
unusual for the fish to be concentrated at only one spot, therefore do not give up without
trying at least several different spots.
Another alternative to marking bottom structure with buoys, that should be considered,
especially if you fish the same area repeatedly, is to construct your own loran chart.
Using a piece of graph paper and assigning each vertical and horizontal line some
increment of the two lines of position you use on your loran, bottom structure positions
can be charted for the general area. Once the positions are all placed on the grid, a
simple visual inspection of the arrangement of the bottom pieces will make it a simple
task to plan the path of drift for the most promising areas.
Tackle, especially terminal tackle, is worth some consideration. With deep water and
currents, more lead than is common to fluke fishing will have to be used, and therefore
slightly heavier rods and reels are more suitable. My choice of outfit is a Penn 320 GTi
or 25 GLS, spooled with 25 lb. test Ande line on a Penn PC-3701L Power Stick rod. This
outfit is light and easy to hold, but strong enough to handle the extra weight and
possibly a large fish.
My terminal tackle is a basic modification of the typical fluke rig. It incorporates a
three-way swivel to which is attached the fishing line, the hook and the sinker. I use pre
snelled packaged hooks, preferring the English wide gap style of 3/0 to 5/0 size. When I
attach the sinker, I position it allowing the hook to ride about one foot above the
bottom. I attach it with a weaker piece of monofilament than is used for the fishing line.
This arrangement keeps the hook above most of the bottom debris, and should the sinker
snag, the lighter line attaching it will part before the main line, thus saving tackle and
perhaps even a fish. I will often also utilize a high hook, approximately two feet above
the swivel and on a shorter leader. Baited with a strip of squid, a killie or a spearing,
this often catches some quality size humpback seabass that also are found around the
wreckage.
Since there is a good possibility to attract larger fish, larger bait is also
appropriate. My preferred bait is a live snapper or one freshly dead. If not available and
in the spirit of bluefish conservation, whole and preferably fresh smelts from the local
fish market work very well as do large killies. A strip of squid added as an attraction
serves well but is not absolutely necessary. Sometimes I have felt that the addition of
the squid strip actu
I
was very determined and experimented with all sorts of combinations. I finally developed a
terminal rig that has proven to work quite well. I use a large double snap (Berkley
doulock) which is attached to the eye of a single, very sharp 6/0 - 8/0 live-bait style
hook. The small locking side of the double lock snap is secured around the eye of the hook
so that the open large side of the snap points in the opposite direction to the bend in
the hook. The hook itself or a needle is used to make a small hole in the tough nose
tissue of the bunker. The large side of the snap is passed through this hole from the top
of the nose and out the mouth of the bunker. The snap is then locked closed. The hook will
remain free swinging at the side of the bunker’s head. When a bass attacks its prey
as it normally does, head first, it is almost immediately hooked somewhere in the mouth
area. The hook-up percentage is excellent using this rig. Most importantly, since most
fish are mouth hooked, they may be released relatively unharmed.